1.21 Gigawatts!

No Comments »

OK, so maybe I’m not harnessing the power of the lighting bolt, but the sun works well too. I’ve been patiently waiting as Acro Electric has been installing the solar system for the house, and more importantly the power to charge the car as well!

I kept climbing up on the roof when I’d get home from work to see what they had accomplished.

Day1:
Here is a picture of some of the anchor bolts installed for one of the two groups of panels.

Here is a close-up of one. You see all the black caulking that goes into the drilled hole. Additionally the black piece of flashing will be over the bolt and hole with the higher shingle laid over this as well see later. This flashing allows most, if not all, of the water never even get near the hole.

Day2:
Here is the south facing group of rails installed. You can now see how each anchor is covered by the flashing and slide under the higher shingle.

Here is a picture of the west facing group. I didn’t have much south facing roof space so half of the panels went here.
Day3:
The panels and inverters are brought in for installation. The panels are from SunPower model SPR-225-BLK-U. They are small and rated for 225 watts a piece, which is quite a bit especially for their size. There are two inverters SPR-3000m and SPR-4000m. As you’ve probably guessed they are rated for 3k watts and 4k watts respectively. There are 28 panels total for a DC/STC rating of 6.3kW. This is fancy rating they give to “lab conditions” and you won’t see these numbers in the real world. Therefore another rating is given (CEC/CSI) which is a “real world” rating of 5.56kW. The physical roof footprint is 393 sq.ft.
Here is the south roof again with the panels installed. They are a nice solid black color, you can’t see the PV cells like you can with the other panels.
The west facing group.
Here is the west facing group again with some perspective of how little roof space was needed for half (3.15kW) of panels. I could really add a lot more if I need to.
Day 4 and 5:
The last couple days was doing all the wiring and finishing touches on the system.
Here are the two inverters mounted in my garage. You can also see the new 220v plug I had them install while they were at it for the car charger. I was running a long, and rather big, cable across my garage before.
Today was the first day they got to fully operate over the entire time frame of sun light and they produced 40kW. I’m pretty sure as summer really kicks in we’ll get even more out of them.
Cars, Honda, Honda S2000 October 3rd 2009

2500 and counting

No Comments »

Today I broke 2500 miles on electric, woohoo! In general things have been really smooth with the build and I’m overall very happy. I’m really pleased with the lithium cells and the balancers I built. Hopefully the cells just keep us moving for many many years :)

OK, so there is one item I’m not completely happy with. The BMS from TS has some really great features all wrapped into one system. Many piece together things like amp meter, fuel gauge, etc. It was nice to find it all in one package, but this thing has been far from reliable.

You may recall my initial problems with charging where the BMS would freak out and start reporting cells at low voltages and such if the charger was at high amps.

The next thing I noticed was two cells that seemed to be sagging pretty bad under load. I placed a volt meter on them and they weren’t sagging at all like the BMS reported. There are 5 modules, up to 10 cells connect to each. I switched around two of the modules and then I started getting two different cells (same module) that were reporting sag. I’m still waiting on a replacement from Elite Power Solutions. The first “replacement” didn’t work at all and I had to send that one back.

I’ve also had a couple of occurrences where the charger just stops during the charge and I couldn’t figure out why. I was at first assuming it was getting a little hot, so I started opening the trunk (until I get time to vent the trunk better). This seemed to fix it for a bit, but it started happening again. While driving the other day, the BMS alarm went off indicating one cell was about one volt lower than it really was (it immediately jumps back up to normal voltage). This has happened a couple of times now. During charging, any low voltage indication will terminate charging, so again the BMS shows its quality.

I have some plans to implement my own high and low voltage protection, and still use this BMS for the rest of it’s functionality. This way if it blimps, it doesn’t matter except for viewing purposes.

Cars, Honda, Honda S2000 October 3rd 2009

DMV trip four

No Comments »

I realized when talking to a guy about my DMV experience that I hadn’t posted the fourth, and I sure hope final trip to DMV for registration to Electric.

As you recall from trips two and three, I was told to come back when the registration was due. This would allow them to open the smog section in their computers so they could input the DMV ID number on the BAR cert and finally change the MP field from G to E.

Well, as I’m sure you can guess, the smog section still couldn’t come up. They tried this and that, talking amongst themselves and about 30 minutes later…nothing. So the lady says, “Well your registration is due, would you like to pay and maybe that will open up the smog section?” What do I have to loose, I’m thinking. I pay and the computer spits out the new registration paperwork. Sure enough, the MP section is already set to E!

So, in hind sight I’m thinking their system has changed a bit. The BAR referee computer must now directly change type to avoid the whole DMV confusion process. I think if I would have waited for the due notice to come in the mail, I could have paid it online and received the updated E registration without any of the headaches I went through.

I have had a few people telling me that E means something else, or doesn’t exist, etc. So I’m really not 100% sure if this is done, and won’t know for two years when the smog would be due again. I think I’m good, but you never know with DMV. :)

Cars, Honda, Honda S2000 October 3rd 2009

Elite Power Solutions – Not so Elite

No Comments »

I’ve been waiting some time to post what I feared would be the case from this company, but I think it’s time to let as many people know as possible.

As you’re aware for those following along I’ve had a few, to say the least, issues with the BMS system I purchased from Elite Power Solutions. I’ve emailed them quite a few times along the way but never really got a fix to anything and it always resulted in me figuring out a work around to make the system happy.

Recently, I thought I had two bad cells. It turns out, again, the BMS was misreporting these cell voltages, but only under load (they show fine at standing voltage, but drop quicker in voltage on under load than they really are). Here is the email transaction. It seems to start off fine, but after well over a month, I just feel like I’m getting the run around.

EDIT (Emails Removed):
Turns out the emails sent around clearly stated they were not allowed to be posted anywhere for public view. I was nicely asked to remove these emails from my blog.

This is where it’s at now. I’m sure they will not get back to me until I bug them again. They are more than happy to take your order, but don’t count on that one year warranty being honored. As far as the TS cells themselves, I’m so far quite pleased. I only ordered them from somebody in the US hoping to get the customer service support if needed.

I’m probably screwed on ever getting this thing fixed and might just design my own or mix and match a few other options out there.

So where should you buy these cells from now? Dave over at EVComponents is offering the cells and a different charger and BMS system. I kick myself, because his cell prices are about 70% of what I paid from EPS. Check out his website at http://www.evcomponents.com/. They are working at keeping these cells in stock! This means no more 2-3 month turn arouund times either. Very promising for the EV world.

Update: Elite is sending yet another module out to replace the defective one. Sadly, I’ve discovered another issue with another module. This module has a problem with one cell where it will randomly cut the voltage in half (display only, the cell is fine). This in turn is telling the charger, if charging, there is a low voltage condition. To the charger this means terminiate immediately and do not restart. I’ve been lucky on the timing and so far have not been stranded while I was debugging the issue. I’ve since reduced my low voltage trigger to just above zero to prevent yet more false alarms. I’ll keep you posted on the results of the second module replacement as well.

Cars, Honda, Honda S2000 October 3rd 2009

In the name of science

No Comments »
Today was a fun day with the EV. It’s not often you have multiple components laying around to get to really test things. You do your research and buy components, then just hope for the best. Not today!
Today a group of friends brought over two of their Kelley controllers for some head-to-head comparisons against each other and my Curtis 1231C. The two Kelley controllers were a 144v 500 amp model, and a 120v 800 amp model.
We monitored pack side voltage and amps, as well as motor side voltage and amps. Sadly we didn’t have a computer tracking the information for a nice graph later but the results were clear enough.
The tests we did, to try and be as accurate as possible, was a 2nd gear take off to 30mph. This requires no shifting and gives the motor a long low RPM scenario so we can measure amps.
We tried to do as little modification as possible to swap controllers so things didn’t need to look good. There are a lot duplicate wires, duct tape and bailing wire. Not to mention the cardboard electric isolators and bungee cord hood tie downs.
Please don’t let your final EV project look like this! :)

The Kelley 144v 500 amp controller was rather sad in my opinion. The highest recorded motor side output was 320 amps. Even in first gear that car felt like it had no power. We tried the “torque” and “speed” settings of the controller, but it didn’t change much. The 0-30 test took 15 seconds on average!
Next the Kelley 120v 800 amp controller. Surprisingly this is in the exact same enclosure as the 500 amp version. We removed seven of my LiFePO4 cells to drop the pack voltage within spec of the controller. I bit of an apples to oranges test, but we had no choice here. Maximum recorded amps was 640 with a 0-30 time of 8 seconds. Much better, but where is the 800 amps this controller is claiming? Perhaps if you could record with enough accuracy you’d see this number for a fraction of a second. Even the 600 amps is gone in less than a second. From the instant you see 600+ amps, they start dropping fast and within seconds you’re looking at 400 amps and then a slower drop off rate. I admit though, out of the hole the bottom end torque felt really good, it just didn’t last long.
Technically we tested the Curtis first since it was in the car, but afterwards we tested it again to track a few points better after we understood a few things. The Curtis surprised me as we saw 535 amps at peak. The interesting point was this didn’t fall down nearly as quick as the two Kelley’s. We counted a full 5 seconds before we even fell below 500. Although the Curtis and Kelley 800 had nearly the same 0-30 of 7-8 seconds the main difference was that the Kelley started off very hard but with it quickly dropping amps it was hard to get to 30 mph in the end. The Curtis on the other hand pulled hard and consistently right past 30 mph.
Pack side measurements weren’t really worth mentioning as they were consistant and reflected the performance seen on the motor side. None of the controllers were able to push the pack amperage above 500 amps. Even at the lowest RPM to get high motor side amps, the pack was only seeing 250 or around there during that. This opens my mind now to installing a higher end controller knowing I can really increase my low end without jeopardizing the pack.
Cars, Honda, Honda S2000 October 3rd 2009